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Mountain
biking in Chianti
Scenic itineraries around Greve in Chianti
by Marco Antonio Pacenti.
Chianti is mostly hilly, with altitudes not exceeding 500-600 metres,
with the exception of Monte S. Michele which is 892m. For various
reasons the Chianti region has remained intact for centuries and
is known throughout the world for the red wine “Chianti Classico”..
It is a mistake, however, to limit interest in Chianti only to wine.
Chianti has extraordinary natural beauty, its air and streams are
unpolluted. Oak and chestnut woods, cypress and pine trees are interspersed
with carefully tended vineyards and olive groves which produce some
of the world’s finest wines and extra-virgin olive oil. The
Romanesque country churches, tabernacles, stone houses, renaissance
villas and antique villages are testimony to an extraordinary artistic
and cultural heritage. Immersed in this enchanting landscape one
feels an incredible sense of well-being.
We propose several excursions around Greve in Chianti, for mountain
bike. Please note: The times we have given is for riding without
stopping to explore the numerous places of interest en route.
The excursions start and finish at Greve, the little town which
is the “capital” of Chianti. Its charming, irregular
central square, Piazza Mercatale, is enclosed by loggias where once
produce was gathered ready for sale and now is lined with speciality
shops. There are frequent fairs and exhibitions in the square, including
an annual autumn wine festival. A statue of Verrazzano stands in
the square. Born in Greve, the famous navigator was the first European
to sight what was to become New York.
Greve – Montefioralle – Badia a Passignano – Panzano
– Lamole – Greve.
Greve – Panzano – Volpaia - Badia a Montemuro –
S.Michele – Greve.
Greve - Montefioralle - Monte Calvario - Quattro Strade - Mercatale
- Ferrone - Poneta - Poggio ai Mandorli - Chiocchio - Nozzole -
Passo dei Pecorai - Greve
Greve – Montefioralle – Badia a Passignano –
Panzano – Lamole – Greve.
Length: 39.3kms
Estimated riding time: about 2 hours 40 minutes
(19.5 kms bitumen – 19.8 kms dirt road)
This route is graded difficult for its length and the level of
fitness and effort required.
As the itinerary doesn’t pass through shaded areas it is advisable
to avoid riding during the hottest part of the day in summer.
Km 0 / h 0: Departing from Greve take the road to Montefioralle,
a steep climb that will put the rider immediately to the test. (bitumen
/ uphill)
Km 1.3 / h 10’: Montefioralle is a most charming village from
which one can enjoy stunning views overlooking the surrounding vineyards
and villas. Originally called Monteficalli for the numerous fig
trees growing in the area, the fortified village was situated along
a roadway called the Guardingo di Passignano which linked the Val
d’Elsa, Val di Pesa , Val di Greve with the upper Valdarno.
All that is left of the feudal castle is part of the 13th century
wall that forms a semicircle around the S. Stefano church, built
in the Gothic style and containing several valuable works of art.
In the past this village or “borgo” has belonged to
several noble families: Ricasoli, Benci, Buondelmonte and Gherardini.
The fame of its wine has been documented since at least 1404.
At the traffic lights continue along the bitumen road. (uphill)
Km 4.6 /h 25’ : Case la Paurosa Turn left at first intersection
and then immediately afterwards turn right for Rignana.
A challenging descent.
(bitumen and dirt road / flat and downhill)
Km 6.6 / h 30’ : Take the road on the right.
(dirt / varying terrain)
Km 7.9 / h 34’ : Take the road on the right.
(dirt / downhill, uphill)
Km 9.3 / h 41’ : Badia a Passignano. Situated on a hill the
magnificent Badia a Passignano, its crenellated towers and walls
flanked by dozens of cypress trees, looks like a castle. It is thought
the Abbey was founded by San Zanobi, Bishop of Florence, in 890.
It was a place of retreat, penitence and prayer for a group of monks
guided by Sichelmo. Two centuries later the monastery adhered to
the reform of San Giovanni Gualberto, the founder of the Vallombrosa
Abbey who was inspired by the rules of Saint Benedict.
The Abbey witnessed the history and glory of Medicean Florence.
In 1810, as a result of the Napoleonic suppression, the monks were
forced to leave, the archives and works of art were dispersed and
the buildings and farmland were rented. Towards the end of the 1800’s
any remaining possessions were auctioned; and crenelated towers
and walls were added. However what remains today maintains the great
charm of the original edifice: the Corinthian columns at the entrance,
the elegant cloister, the courtyards, the frescoes, the refectory,
the pulpit sculpted from pietra serena, the enormous kitchen with
its huge fireplace and soaring chimney.
Turn right at the first and second intersections.
(dirt / uphill)
Km 12.2 / h 54’ : Case la Paurosa. Turn right, direction Panzano.
(bitumen / varying terrain)
Km 18.3 / h 1.19’ : Panzano dominates a hill situated between
the Pesa and Greve valleys. There is written documentation of Panzano
castle dating from 1041. Following the disastrous battle of Monteaperti
in 1260 the Siena Ghibellines devastated most of the castle walls,
fortress and towers. When Siena fell to the Florentines Panzano
enjoyed a long period of peace. Riding along the main street of
the town one can see the castle’s arched entrance and the
mostly reconstructed building that was the ancient feudal residence
of the Firidolfi Ricasoli family. Beside the castle is S.Maria Assunta
church whose bell tower was one of the castle’s towers. Nothing
remains of the medieval church once within the castle’s walls,
the artworks of which are now found in the new church. Of note is
the renaissance oratory in the Compagnia della SS. Annunziata. A
small village began to develop outside the castle walls in the C12th,
known today as Panzano Alto.
From Piazza Campana follow the road for Cennatoio-Lamole.
(bitumen, dirt / varying terrain)
Km 19.8 / h 1.26’ : turn right for Cennatoio.
(dirt / uphill, flat)
Km 22.1 / h 1.40’ : Poggio al Sodo. Turn left for Ristoro
di Lamole-Agriturismo Le Volpaie.
(dirt / downhill, flat)
Km 23.7 / h 1.47’ : Lamole is situated in a panoramic position.
The Romanesque church S. Donato was built in the C13th and restored
in the C17th . Riding along the road down to the valley one can
see on the left the remains of Lamole castle, today a group of houses.
Take direction for Greve (bitumen / downhill)
Km 27.3 / h 1.53’ : Pile di sotto. Passing a group of houses
you will see a little church – take the dirt road on the right
and then immediately afterwards take the road to the left.
You will come to the locality Poggio all’ Olmo. Attention!
It could be easy to lose your way here…. Ride through the
group of houses and take the 3rd road on the right – this
path is rough and is situated between a vineyard and a wall. Ahead,
after the curve, pass by a path on the right (note a wooden gate).
Going ahead, the descent will bring you to a house called Le Lastre.
Ride through the olive grove, where the path isn’t noticeable.
Once through the olive grove you will see the path again to the
right at the beginning of a wood. Ride through the woods –
just several hundred metres.
(path, dirt / downhill)
Km 29.3 / h. 2.03’ : Beyond the woods, you will come to another
vineyard: take the path to the right. Past the vineyard, pass by
the path on the left. Further ahead take the road to the left.
Arriving at Corti di Sopra, ride straight ahead at the intersection
(the road to the right leads to Le Corti vineyard). You will ride
past several secondary roads.
(dirt / varying terrain, downhill)
Km 34.8 / h. 2.27’ : Go straight at the crossroad.
(bitumen / flat)
Km 36.3 / h 2.31’ : Intersection with the SS 222. Turn right.
(bitumen / flat)
Km 39.3 / h 2.39’ : Greve.
Greve – Panzano – Volpaia - Badia a Montemuro –
S. Michele – Greve.
Length: Km 44
Estimated time: 3 hours
(bitumen Km 18.7 – dirt Km 25.3)
This itinerary is considered difficult for its length and for
the quality of the road bed. It is mostly dirt and uphill. It is
possible to encounter muddy stretches at Km 31 and Km 32 which could
force the rider to walk those patches. Several kilometres of this
itinerary form part of the Chianti Extreme bike race.
If you prefer to ride more on bitumen, you could continue on straight
from the Badiaccia a Montemuro as far as Torsoli, turn left for
S. Michele and then follow directions down to Greve.
Having written of the difficulties, we wish to add the scenery during
this itinerary is beautiful, often wild; one rides as far as the
southern limit of the Florentine zone of Chianti and to the summit
of Monte S. Michele from where the panorama extends for kilometres
across the hills. In the woods, before arriving at Badiaccia a Montemuro,
you will see Dogole, the long abandoned hamlet and mill. If you
wish to stop for a break we recommend the Monte S. Michele woods
where the locals often picnic in summer. Near the Villa San Michele
complex near the summit there are two restored spring fountains,
del Barbiere and del Lavatoio. Villa San Michele has a bar, restaurant
and rooms for rent and a hostel. For information: info@villasanmichele.it
.
Km 0 / h 0 : Departing from the square in Greve, take the SS 222
(known as “the Chiantigiana”), direction Panzano.
(bitumen / varying terrain)
Km 2.2 / h 8’ : Turn off on the right following the sign for
Vitigliano.
(dirt / uphill)
Km 4.2 / h 18’ : Junction with the SS 222 : turn right.
(bitumen / uphill)
Km 5 / h 22’ : Ride past the Piazza di Campana at Panzano.
Follow directions for Cennatoio-Montemaggio.
(bitumen, dirt / varying terrain)
Km 6.5 / h 29’ : At junction follow the sign for Cennatoio.
( dirt / varying terrain)
Km 8.8 / h 43’ : Poggio al Sodo. Take the road to the right.
200 metres further on veer to the left, direction Volpaia.
(dirt / flat)
Km 10.5 / h 52’ : Turn to the right, following the CAI 52
track.
(dirt / uphill, downhill)
Km 14.5 / h 1.02’ : Volpaia is a fortified medieval village
whose elliptical walls are partly destroyed. The most important
building is the Commenda di S. Eufrosino, established in 1443 by
bequest of ser Piero della Volpaia. One can see the fortification’s
main tower and a smaller tower. The cylindrical tower on the north
side is a later addition. When Siena finally fell in 1555, Volpaia
was no longer required for defense purposes and it transformed into
an agricultural village.
(bitumen / downhill)
Km 18.7 / h 1.13’ : Continue on in the direction for Radda
in Chianti. Turn left at the next 2 intersections.
(bitumen / uphill)
Km 21.4 / h 1.27’ : La Villa. Near the Cappella del Mercatale
(chapel) go right, following directions for Cavriglia-Lucolena.
(bitumen / downhill, uphill)
Km 26.6 / h 1.55’ : Fattoria di Pian d’Albola. All that
remains today of this antique fort is the turret and the village
which developed around the castle. In 1551 there were 126 inhabitants
here. Today the vineyard is one of the most renowned producers of
Chianti Classico. Continue straight on.
(dirt, bitumen / varying terrain)
Km 29 / h 2.08’ : Continue straight on.
(bitumen / varying terrain)
Km 31.1 / h 2.16’ : Badiaccio a Montemuro. Monks of the Camaldoli
order founded a monastery here in the
C 11th which united with the Benedictine monastery near Florence
in the C 16th. Only a few traces of the monastery remain today.
Approximately 300m further on, on top of a hill look on the left
for the CAI 00 track. Turn onto the track and continue straight
on, passing by a track on the right.
(bitumen, dirt / uphill)
Km 32.6 / h 2.26’ : Ride straight ahead at first junction.
Turn right at next junction; and then continue straight on at the
following junction.
(pathway / uphill)
Km 34 / h 2.37’ : San Michele church is built at the top of
Mt. San Michele, the highest peak in the Chianti mountain chain.
It was built by an order of Vallombroso monks around the year 1000
and was inhabited until 1616. All that is left of the original building
are the altar wall and part of the two side walls. Every year, on
Ascension Day, lovers celebrate the rite of the “broom knot”,
going into the woods where the heavily scented, yellow broom flowers
are in bloom and, uniting two of the plants, pledge eternal love.
Continue on, passing several secondary roads on the left.
(dirt / varying terrain)
Km 36.3 / h 2.43’ : Continue straight on at the junction
(dirt, bitumen / downhill)
Km 44 / h 3.00’ : After the pleasant ride down from Monte
S. Michele you arrive back in Greve.
Greve - Montefioralle - Monte Calvario - Quattro Strade - Mercatale
- Ferrone - Poneta - Poggio ai Mandorli - Chiocchio - Nozzole -
Passo dei Pecorai - Greve.
Length: Km 41.9
Estimated time: about h.2.17'
(bitumen Km 18.5 - dirt Km 23.4)
Rather difficult.
One of the longest itineraries, the unpaved road surface is good
and not particularly steep, either uphill or downhill. However,
the rider needs to be fit. The itinerary follows the north-west
border of Chianti Classico as far as Mercatale. There are two villages
along the itinerary: Montefioralle and Mercatale. There aren't many
places of cultural interest, but the rider will enjoy the beautiful
countryside. En route amongst the hills one will see castles, country
churches and farm houses surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and
woodlands.
At Km 3.1 the road could be very muddy.
Km 0/ h 0 : departing from Greve, follow directions for Montefioralle.
A steep climb
(bitumen / uphill)
Km 1.3 / h 10' : Montefioralle. Do stop and have a stroll through
this delightful “borgo”. All that is left of the antique
feudal castle is part of the 13th century wall which forms a semicircle
around the S. Stefano church, built in the Gothic style and containing
several valuable works of art. In the past this village belonged
to several noble families: Ricasoli, Benci, Buondelmonte and Gherardini.
The fame of its wine has been documented since at least 1404.
Continue straight on riding beside the wall of the village. Turn
left near the water fountain.
(bitumen, dirt / varying terrain)
Km 2.2 / h 13' : Turn left at junction, riding downhill
(dirt / downhill)
Km 3.1 / h 19' : Having ridden uphill turn right at junction
(dirt / uphill)
Km 4.4 / h 26' : Keep going straight ahead past the Pernano farmhouse.
(dirt / uphill)
Km 4.5 / h 27' : Turn right along the SP 118, following directions
for Mercatale
(bitumen / downhill, uphill)
Km 6.6 / h 37' : Case la Paurosa. Keep going straight on along the
bitumen road
(bitumen / uphill)
Km 8.7 / h 44' : Poggio di Testa Lepre. Follow directions for Mercatale
(bitumen / varying terrain)
Km 13.4 / h 52' : Quattro Strade. Go straight on at junction, direction
Mercatale
(bitumen, varying terrain)
Km 14.6 / h 55' : Mercatale. During medieval times Mercatale became
the market spot for the inhabitants of the surrounding area (they
lived in the hills for defence purposes). When peace finally reigned
the inhabitants gradually moved close to the market place, the town
developed and the hill communities disappeared. During the Renaissance
Florentine noble families and merchants built villas in the area.
Follow directions for the town centre and S. Casciano
(bitumen / flat)
Km 16.2 / h 1.00' : At junction turn right for Luiano. There is
a wonderful lookout along this road. Do be careful to stay on the
right as you ride down the dirt road!
(bitumen, dirt / flat, downhill)
Km 21 / h 1.09' : At junction turn right along the SP 3, direction
Greve.
(bitumen / flat)
Km 22.9 / h 1.14' : Ferrone has always been the centre of terracotta
production in Tuscany. Production today is mostly paving tiles.
Ride over the stream and turn left near the church, continuing along
the dirt road.
(dirt / uphill)
Km 25.9 / h 1.28' : Go straight on at first junction. Turn right
at second junction, riding uphill. Ride through the woods, then
after approximately 100m turn left and then turn right. Go straight
on past several side roads.
(dirt / uphill, flat)
Km 27.1 / h 1.36' : Poggio a Mandorli. Ride past the downhill road
on the left. At next junction, turn left.
(dirt / flat)
Km 28.8 / h 1.41' : Chiocchio. Go to the left as you come to the
first houses. Continue on to the SS 222 (the "Chiantigiana").
Turn right.
(bitumen / varying terrain)
Km 29.4 / h 1.44' : Chiocchio: Turn right along the dirt road -
there is a restaurant ( note: there is a post office further along
the street which you turn off). Ride through the wooded area as
far as Fattoria di Nozzole. Turn left.
(dirt / varying terrain)
Km 33.6 / h 1.55' : Passo dei Pecorai. Turn left, direction Greve.
(bitumen / flat)
Km 38 / h 2.06' : Turn right at junction, direction Greti-Greve.
(bitumen / flat)
Km 41.9 / h 2.17' : Welcome back to Greve.

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